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Afghanistan

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Chad

Chile

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Colombia

Comoros

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Cook Islands

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Djibouti

Dominica

Dominican Republic

Ecuador

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Falkland Islands (Malvinas)

Faroe Islands

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Gabon

Gambia

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Honduras

Hong Kong

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<h3 style="text-align: center;">Hair is akin to a delicate fabric, and a child’s hair is even more so. Until your kid comes home with a green mohawk and a scalp tattoo – it’ll happen sooner than you’d like – care for those tender sprouts with tender care while you still can.</h3><h4>BABY HAIR</h4>
<p>Newborn scalps are so soft and smell so good, so treat them so carefully. The diameter, texture, and color of a kid’s hair are still forming up to age 12 (sometimes beyond).</p>
<p>Don’t worry if your baby was born bald or with extremely fine hair. Every child has a unique hair growth pattern, but by age three hair typically covers the head, and begins to reveal its color and texture. Hair that is blonde at birth may slowly darken over time, and eye color may also change at around 9 months; cells that produce melanin – or pigment – are still developing and can’t yet create colors determined by genes.</p>
<p>Babies less than 6 months old may experience hair loss or bald patches, partly due to a sudden but normal drop in hormone levels. A bald spot at the back of the head is likely due to resting on that spot, and baby hair doesn’t respond well to friction. Time is the only cure: growth will improve naturally when little ones begin to roll over and crawl.<br><br>A healthy baby will have healthy hair. Proper nutrition is the key to <a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/stories/2019/03/05/how-have-healthy-hair/">healthy growth</a> overall and to developing an effective immune system.</p>

<h4>BABY HAIR CARE</h4>
<p>Washing infant hair once or twice a week is plenty. Choose a gentle formula, avoiding harsh chemicals that could irritate baby's sensitive skin or contribute to hair loss Just remember to be very gentle and avoid putting pressure on the soft spot on the top of the head. Even some children as old as five are sensitive to such pressure. As kids grow, three times a week is a good maximum. At any age, wash hair at the end of the bath so sudsy water doesn’t irritate sensitive skin.</p>

<p>Traditional shampoo is simply too aggressive for a kid’s delicate hair and scalp, and frankly, kids' hair may not be as “dirty” as you think (barring food fights, mud pits, and finger paints) and water alone will often suffice, even with sweat. But when you do need it, a <a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/products/new-wash/">hair cleanser</a> that doesn’t make eyes sting is key. <a href="https://www.hairstory.com/products/new-wash/new-wash-original/">New Wash</a> is ideal for so many reasons, but among them is its dense, creamy formula that stays where you put it and won’t run or slide downward.</p><br>

<h4>KIDS' HAIR CARE</h4>
<p>Some kids would rather eat vegetables than have their hair washed, but it’s good to teach them about how important both are. Make wash time a fun time and find ways to make it a special treat. Sing, make spa jokes, blow bubbles together – anything to lighten the mood in the tub and create a distraction. Here's our foolproof kids' hair care routine:</p>

<ol><li><strong>Gently lather your son or daughter's hair until fully coated.</strong><br> </li><li><strong>Take a damp - not soaking or dripping - washcloth and wipe shampoo away.</strong> Or get babies used to water on their faces early by holding them in the shower with you. Try asking kids to look up at the shower head or hang a bright toy from the curtain bar to focus on and use a plastic bucket or cup to rinse. In any case, use lukewarm water – not too hot, not too cold, just right. And dry hair immediately as babies can catch a cold easily.<br> </li><li><strong>Skip the conditioner.</strong> If you’re using a hair cleanser like New Wash, skip the conditioner completely because it isn’t necessary.<br> </li><li><strong>Towel Dry. </strong>Kid hair is already dry, so avoid drying wet hair with a hair dryer.<br> </li><li><strong>Stick to water-based moisturizers</strong> to keep hair soft and supple in between washes (try Hair Balm). Use natural oils like argan oil and shea butter to nourish and lubricate before styling. Coconut oil is an excellent conditioner from head to toe – organic, if possible – and it’s available in a solid form that makes it easy to handle without spills. Just rub some into your hands and apply it to hair from the roots to tips.<br> </li><li><strong>Brush out the tangles.</strong> After-bath combing shouldn’t feel like torture (to parent or child). With nourishing oils in place as detanglers, use a wide-toothed comb to untangle any knots. In fact, if you use a wide-tooth comb while New Wash is still in the hair before rinsing it out, you’ve won more than half the battle. In general, though, don’t start combing at the top of the head; you’ll just make tangles worse as they tighten with downward tension. Instead, begin at the ends and slowly work your way up to the roots, gently pulling apart knots with your fingers.</li></ol>

<h4>POST-BATHTIME CARE</h4>
<p>When dry hair gets knotty, try this: fill a spray bottle with warm water and about a dozen pumps of leave-in conditioner – Hair Balm is perfect. Shake well and use it to dampen hair before combing. You’ll be amazed. Beyond that, keeping hair tied back is a good way to keep tangles to a minimum.</p>
<p>For afro textures, many parents limit “out” days and keep children’s hair in buns, braids, or twists to save tears and time detangling on wash day. Your local braiding expert can create a style that might last as long as 2 weeks. But young hairlines are sensitive – binding and pulling too tightly can cause damage and&nbsp;even recession later on.</p>

<h4>BRUSHING UP</h4>
<p>Brushing – with soft, natural bristles – helps blood circulate in the scalp and deliver nutrients to follicles. Similar to combing, start brushing at the ends and work your way up toward the scalp, removing the knots along the way. But always use downward strokes to keep cuticles as smooth as possible.</p><h4>THE FIRST CUT</h4>
<p>A salon shouldn’t be a scary place for kids (if it is, find another one) and bringing yours along to your next appointment is a good way to prove your point. Ask for a stylist who loves working with little ones, and schedule a slot after naptime or whenever your child is most alert and content.<br><br>Bring along a favorite comfort item and trust the stylist to start with the perimeter (bangs, ears, nape) so that even a cut that gets interrupted for any reason has a good chance of looking finished.<br><br>It is a common misconception in many cultures that cutting or shaving hair will magically make baby’s hair grow faster, thicker and healthier. There is no scientific proof to support this practice.<br> </p><h4>ACCESSORIES</h4>
<p>Ever wonder why little girls wear brightly colored, plastic clips? Because they’re neither heavy nor sharp and won’t damage hair. And they’re cute. And cheap.</p>

<h4>SEASONAL REASONING</h4>
<p>Hats are a must to protect babies’ tender heads from the sun. If it’s cold outside, make sure that your child waits until his or her hair is completely dry before going out. Wet hair can freeze and break in cold weather.<br><br>If swimming in a chlorinated pool, slather on some conditioner beforehand (hello, Hair Balm) and take a shower in fresh water afterward before the chlorine has a chance to dry and is nearly impossible to remove completely.<br></p>

<p>* * *</p>
<p>We hope your child’s hair story is nothing less than a fairy tale full of magic and adventure. But it’s up to you as a parent to provide the best care you can from the inside out (we can’t overstate the importance of nutritious food). So eat well, <a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/stories/2019/01/15/get-sulfates-out-your-life-and-your-hair/">wash wisely</a>, dry gently, oil occasionally, and do what you can to make haircare a joy, not a chore. And if you’re a new parent, we offer our heartiest congratulations.</p>

Products for Baby Hair: From Bathtime to Playtime

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<h4>Best Hair Color Trends and Ideas for 2020</h4>
<p>Dealing with roots during the Spring lockdown was tough, but the 2020 Summer season is going to be even tougher. Colorists will likely be working overtime to see clients clamoring to get their color done while following new safety guidelines. So if you’re the type who used to pop in every few weeks for a touch-up, you may want to adjust your expectations (and learn how to prepare for your first visit&nbsp;<a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/stories/2020/05/08/the-post-pandemic-salon-tips-to-keep-you-and-hairdressers-healthy/">here</a>.)</p>
<p>But back to those roots: Don’t be so quick to send them back into hiding. What if we told you that they could be your best asset this season? Our summer hair color directions are designed to last – and grow out as long as you please. Why? Most are achieved with a process called balayage. From the French word for “sweeping,” color – and/or bleach – is painted onto hair with a precise placement that does away with the hard line when regrowth appears.</p>
<h5>Our summer hair color directions are designed to last – and grow out as long as you please.</h5>
<p>A “shadow root”– darker roots melting into lighter ends – is what the technique is after, no matter what your natural color is. The goal here is to achieve a seamless gradation from shade to sun-kissed and infuse it with any color palette you choose. Let our top shots inspire your perfect summer hair color.</p>

<h4>Anything-but-basic Blonde</h4>
<p>These pale tints are summer classics, but notice how none of them pretend to be 100% natural, with an unapologetic “regrowth” that keeps the focus on the blonde. Keeping bleach away from the roots is a scalp-saver and eliminates the guesswork when trying to get new roots to match the old tones. Add a suntan and a shimmer lotion, and you’ve got California chic.</p>

<h4>Ash Blonde</h4>
<p>The coolest of these summer looks are icy blondes with washes of silver or gray that unlike the warmer and honeyed tones are summer’s true neutrals. It’s also a perfect blank canvas for weaving in some pastels.</p>

<h4>Golden Blonde</h4>
<p>Also called Bronde, or golden bronze, these blends of golds and browns are celebrity favorites and the best of both light and dark worlds. Hair regrowth is a non-issue, and selective lightening is easier on fragile or <a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/stories/2019/04/16/six-sure-fixes-for-dry-hair/">dry hair</a> that might be susceptible to chemical damage.</p>

<h4>The Copper Club</h4>
<p>Copper is good at killing viruses, and although these colors don’t use the real thing, their warmth could give you symbolic peace of mind. Also referred to as “rose brown,” this range is an evolution of the rose gold trend, but whatever you call it, these are pastels that brunettes can more easily embrace as the lightening process needn’t be extreme to prepare hair to accept a blend of brown and red dyes. </p>

<h4>Mixed Berries</h4>
<p>One of the blessings of summertime is all those sun-warmed berries ready for the picking, and this palette of fruity hues offer a refreshing, playful mood, especially paired with berry-stained lip, cheek or eye palettes.</p>

<h4>Dark Shadows</h4>
<p></p>
<p>For the darkest of natural colors, there are ombre options too – natural tones, ones that could be, or those that are decidedly artificial. Just be mindful that very pale pastels and vivids will require significant bleaching to achieve, so stick to mid-range shades or darker as healthier options.</p>
<p>Any of the looks above can be achieved with one of  these delicious palettes of tones that melt from dark roots to lighter ends:</p>
<p>• Dark chocolate to iced mocha<br>• Milk chocolate to ginger/chili<br>• Molasses to honey<br>• Auburn to sandy rose<br>• Browned butter to caramel<br>• Espresso to cappuccino<br>• Toffee to buttercream<br>• Licorice to butterscotch</p>
<p>...you get the idea. </p>
<p></p>

<h4>DIY Color</h4>
<p>If you’re happy at home and the salon feels like a risk, here are some recipes to shift your color in a natural direction. </p><h5>Lightening with Lemon Juice</h5>
<p>This tip may make you nostalgic for teenage poolside summers, and you’ll remember how lemon juice – a natural hair lightener – reacted to sunshine for homemade highlights. Take out the sunbath part and make the results more predictable – and safer, as lemon is photosensitive and makes skin prone to burning – by mixing it with conditioner.<br>• Mix 1 part conditioner to 3 parts lemon juice.<br>• Comb the mixture through your hair from root to tip or just the areas you want to lighten. Put on a shower cap or cover with plastic wrap.<br>• Leave on for at least 1½ hours or overnight.<br>• Rinse with warm water, followed by a deep conditioner to restore moisture. </p><h5>Reviving Reds</h5>
<p><strong></strong>Carrots, raspberries, beets, and pomegranates all contain pigments that work as temporary toners. Blend them well and pack onto hair as you would a masque and leave on for about 15 minutes, or until you get the color you’re going for. </p><h5>Toning with Teas</h5>
<p>Steeping various herbs and then spraying them onto hair is a wholesome – and inexpensive – method of creating temporary tones:<br>• Chamomile tea spray brightens blonde tones.<br>• Hibiscus tea spray is a great toner for redheads (and a rich source of Vitamin C). <br>• Sage tea spray helps to darken gray hair. <br>• Black tea spray turns dark tones a bit richer.</p>
<p>To brew: <br>• Steep ½ cup of herbs in 2 cups of boiled water for 45 minutes to an hour. <br>• Strain when cool and pour into a spray bottle. <br><br>To apply: <br>• Spray onto clean hair, massage in or comb through<br>• Let sit for about two hours and rinse out with cold water.</p><h5>The Eclectic Kool-Aid Brassy Test</h5>
<p>Purple Kool-Aid, or any purple-flavored and colored soft drink mix can keep blondes from going brassy and browns from turning red. Use the bluish powder to mix up a concentrated solution (more powder and less water than a drinkable batch) and apply to hair, comb through and leave in for an hour or so.<br><br>• • •<br><br>It’s highly likely you’ve been experimenting at home these past several weeks, and who can blame you? But when you finally see your colorist again, it is vital that you come clean and list anything you may have used – yes, even henna (especially henna) – so that chemical residue doesn’t cause unexpected results and unwelcome surprises.</p>
<p></p>

7 Hair Color Trends: Summer 2020

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<h3 style="text-align: center;">Our wish for you this year is that you be well. We hope you are taking every precaution to protect yourself from COVID-19 – or hope you are on a steady path to recovery.&nbsp;</h3>
<p style="text-align: center;">A silver lining of this last year is a sharpened focus on our physical and mental health, and though there is a faint light at the end of this pandemic tunnel, there are many ways to take care of ourselves while we make it through and beyond. </p>
<p>One of our biggest challenges as modern humans is keeping our minds, bodies, and breathing in sync. Bringing a consistently acute awareness to all three is what most mind/body practices are all about, and mastery eludes even gurus and sages. The facts are that our thoughts hold tremendous power over our bodies and our breath – and our breath has enormous influence over our bodies and our minds. </p>
<p>We’ve all been through an arguably unprecedented, nail-biting year with traumatic, anxiety-inducing death, destruction, delusion, and division around every corner, and depression on the horizon. Human brains just aren’t made for this – we’re great at solving short-term emergencies, but existing with extended stress is not our strong suit. Self-help isn’t a bourgeois privilege anymore; these days, it’s a basic necessity. So let’s start from the top down:  </p><h4>THE MIND</h4><h5>Anxiety and Stress</h5>
<p>Chronic worry and emotional stress can trigger a host of health problems. </p>
<p>When the automatic physiological reaction called the “fight or flight” response is triggered –  in the most primitive and the automatic areas of the human brain – your nervous system surges with adrenaline, cortisol, and sets your body on red alert. These hormones boost blood sugar and triglycerides (blood fats) for emergency fuel when under threat.</p>
<p>Modern threats, however, may activate disproportionate physical reactions. Thinking you’ve lost your phone, for example, is not as threatening as being chased by a tiger. But the chemical response is the same, and so is the physical response: tensed muscles, a sudden inhale, quickened heartbeat. When that super-fueled blood isn’t put to good use, unspent hormones that help you flee or fight said tiger but don’t do much when you realize your phone is in another pocket can have serious health consequences, including:</p><ul><li>Immune system suppression</li><li>Digestive disorders</li><li>Muscle tension</li><li>Short-term memory loss</li><li>Heart disease</li><li>Depression</li></ul>
<p>The good news: The stress isn’t what makes you ill. Rather, it’s your response to it. Worrying can help – but only if it motivates you to take action to be ready for whatever comes. If you’re worried about money, for example, it can encourage you to get your finances in order or to reach out for help. This is called “defensive pessimism.” But if you’ve already done all that you can do to affect the outcome, worry won’t do much good – and may very well cause harm.</p>
<p>The minute you feel that blood surge, do your best to catch yourself and objectively assess the threat level. It’s not always a jungle out there. </p><h5>Gratitude is the Attitude</h5>
<p>One of the simplest, most effective ways to face a challenge is to be grateful. </p>
<p>Using gratitude to reframe your perception asks you to find things to be grateful for, even when – or especially when – there doesn’t seem to be much. Gratitude is a direct method to bring yourself to the present and put a pause on regretting the past or worrying about the future. Many people make this a daily practice and even maintain gratitude journals.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.joanborysenko.com/">Dr. Joan Borysenko</a>, Ph.D., psycho-neuro-immunology and mind/body scientist says, “Psychologists have done the research, and it turns out that gratitude is the character strength most related to wellbeing. From a mind/body perspective, this is not only medicine for the soul, but medicine for the body. It has tremendous effects on your immune system, on the balance of your hormones, on your cardiovascular system – you name it.”</p>
<p>Sick of staying home until the pandemic passes? Be grateful for the roof over your head. Feeling isolated? Be grateful for – and reach out to – somebody who does care and who matters. Bored by cooking yet another meal? Be grateful you’re able to put food on the table. You get the idea. </p>
<p>The next time you’re feeling a lack, demand that your mind identify sufficiency, even abundance. Then take at least a dozen seconds to savor it so that it goes beyond short-term memory buffers and gets stored as a longer-term emotional memory and really sinks in.</p><h5>Train Your Brain</h5>
<p>The reason that the approaches above work is this: you can use your brain to change your mind. </p>
<p>At the root of all this talk about mindfulness is the simple fact that we can rewire our brains. To an extent, you can rewrite your response code to update your inner alarm system or cultivate a glass-half-full outlook. By using intention and repetition, you can direct the growth of new neurons. New habits become new pathways, and old habits fade as do the old, disused pathways. In fact, you’re growing new neurons as you read this paragraph. This is called neuroplasticity.</p>
<p>“If you want to help yourself feel less concerned, uneasy, nervous, anxious, or traumatized – feelings and reactions that are highly affected by "reptilian," brainstem-related processes – then you need many, many repetitions of feeling safe, protected, and at ease,” says <a href="https://www.rickhanson.net/">Dr. Rick Hanson</a>, psychologist, and best-selling author. “This leaves lasting traces in the brainstem and limbic system structures that produce the first emotion, the most primal one of all: fear.”</p><h5>Take Intentional Breaths</h5>
<p>Change how you breathe to change how you feel. </p>
<p>Spiritual teacher <a href="https://eckharttolle.com/">Eckhart Tolle</a> puts it simply: “If I had to recommend a daily spiritual practice for you for the next year, something that would bring about a huge boost in consciousness in you, it would be doing this simple thing… Be aware of your breathing.”</p>
<p>Joyous breathing is regular, deep, and slow. Anxious or angry breathing is short, fast, and shallow. Breathing slowly and deeply can de-escalate a full-blown panic attack in a matter of minutes. </p>
<p>Changing the rhythm of your breath can signal relaxation, slow your heart rate, and stimulate the vagus nerve, which runs from the brain stem to the abdomen. This nerve is part of the parasympathetic nervous system responsible for the body’s “rest and digest” mode (in contrast to the sympathetic nervous system, which regulates “fight or flight” responses; remember that tiger). Triggering your parasympathetic nervous system helps you start to calm down and restore your ability to think rationally.</p>

<h5>The 4:8 Breath for Calm</h5>
<p>Try changing the ratio of your inhale to exhale. Breathe in through your nose for a count of four and out for a count of eight through pressed lips for several rounds to start to calm your nervous system. Remember: when you feel agitated, lengthen your exhales.</p>
<p>Take it a step further by pausing your breaths at both the top of the exhale and the bottom of the inhale. This is called the four-part or box breath.</p><h5>The 5:5 Breath for Energy</h5>
<p>Next time you reach for another cup of java to perk up, take a deep breath instead. Shallow breathing leads to an imbalance in oxygen and carbon dioxide levels, and the problem may be as simple as not getting enough oxygen circulating through your body. Virtually all of the oxygen we breathe is used by our cells to produce energy.</p>
<p>First, focus on your breathing as it is naturally. Then, intentionally slow your breath and deepen it slightly. Inhale for five counts, then exhale for five counts. Repeat for a minimum of 6 cycles, up to 30 cycles (about 5 minutes).</p><h5>Breathe for Hair Growth</h5>
<p>When we’re under stress, we tend to take shallower breaths than is optimal, which means taking in less oxygen. The oxygen that we do inhale goes to support the most vital organs first – the heart, lungs, and brain – and less oxygen is available for less essential parts of the body, including the hair.</p><h4>THE BODY</h4>

<h5>Eat Well</h5>
<p>While there is no single diet that works for every single body, <a href="https://www.acc.org/about-acc/press-releases/2020/09/14/13/32/pesco-mediterranean-diet-intermittent-fasting-may-lower-heart-disease-risk">The Journal of the American College of Cardiology</a> makes the case that a pesco-Mediterranean approach paired with elements of intermittent fasting is a strong contender for the healthiest diet science has yet identified.</p>
<p>Plant-based foods – vegetables, fruit, legumes, nuts, seeds, and whole grains – form the diet’s foundation. Fatty fish and other types of seafood, along with “unrestricted” helpings of extra-virgin olive oil, round it out along with modest helpings of dairy products, poultry, and eggs. Red meat should be eaten sparingly or avoided. Low or moderate amounts of alcohol – preferably red wine – are acceptable, but water, coffee, and tea are preferred. It is also, by the way, the best recipe for healthy hair and skin.</p>
<p>The diet also advocates for time-restricted eating, which calls for the day’s calories to be consumed within an 8-to-12-hour window to reduce total calories and regulate inflammation and hormones.</p>

<h5>Cut Back on the Sugar</h5>
<p>The average American eats about 17 teaspoons of added sugar per day, roughly twice the amount recommended for men and three times the recommended amount for women. As a result, sugar is the leading cause of our obesity epidemic and raises the risk of diabetes, cancer, and Alzheimer’s.</p>
<p>“Sugar turns on the aging programs in your body,” <a href="https://robertlustig.com/">Dr. Robert Lustig</a> of the University of California, San Francisco says. “The more sugar you eat, the faster you age.”</p><h5>Get Out into the Wild</h5>
<p>Forests have provided humans with food, medicine, and building materials, and sustenance and shelter for countless species over the eons. Forests function as some of the planet’s vital organs and have helped create our breathable atmosphere – and are perfect places to find solace. Sometimes it’s good to feel like a speck and get out of our own heads.</p>
<p>Our relationship with trees and plants is symbiotic; we inhale the oxygen they create as they absorb the carbon dioxide we exhale. So take your new breathing awareness outside and into the woods and see what happens. And while hugging people is off the table for now, trees won’t mind how close you get.</p>

<h5>Spend Time in Motion</h5>
<p>Many of us have been doing an awful lot of sitting these past months; it’s time to get off our butts and get ourselves in motion. A simple daily walk will do wonders for your body and mind – and get you breathing more deeply (the woodlands await you), but there are plenty of ways to move without even going outside.</p>
<p>Several studies show that even short bursts of exercise result in meaningful changes to fitness and metabolic health. </p>
<p>Qigong, a form of Tai Chi, consists of gentle, flowing movements specifically to engage the body, mind, and breath simultaneously and requires little stamina or strength. It is ideal for those with limited mobility or aging bones; you can even do it while seated.</p>
<p>Yoga offers a vast array of practices for people at any fitness level. The idea behind yoga’s physical practice is to encourage a deeper mind-body awareness to balance the physical body and bring clarity and focus to the mind. There are many yoga styles built on many centuries of tradition that combine a series of flowing postures with rhythmic breathing for an intense body-mind workout.</p>
<p>If you’re not yet comfortable going back to the gym, or yours remains closed, there’s a wealth of online workouts to choose from. Even some dance companies are offering classes led by company members. We know; working from home and working out at home may not be ideal, but to circle back, find ways to be grateful for the ways your body is able.</p>

<h5>Massage Your Scalp</h5>
<p>To circle back to the top, when was the last time you gave your gead a good massage? It’s the best way to stimulate the circulation of blood to the hair follicles and deliver the nutrients hair needs for healthy growth. Be careful not to do it so vigorously that you actually pull hair out, and don’t abrade your scalp with your fingernails. Some essential oils are reputed to promote blood circulation, so try adding Peppermint, Rosemary, or Jojoba oils to your massage, or look for them on ingredient lists.</p>
<p>In addition, scalp exercises that focus on the eyebrows can lessen scalp tension and loosen the skin to let the blood flow more freely: Lift your eyebrows as high as you can and hold for a minute or two, then relax. Furrow your eyebrows deeply, and hold that for a minute or two, then relax.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>* * *</strong></p><h4 style="text-align: center;">RESOURCES TO HELP RESET YOUR WELLNESS MINDSET</h4>
<p style="text-align: center;">• Ways to Practice <a href="https://gratefulness.org/">Gratitude</a><br>• The Science of <a href="https://www.rickhanson.net/">Neuroplasticity</a> <br>•The <a href="https://www.joanborysenko.com/">Mind/body</a> Connection<br>•<a href="https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/547761/breath-by-james-nestor/">Breath:</a> The New Science of a Lost Art<br>• A Seven-day <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/programs/sugar-challenge?campaign_id=9&emc=edit_nn_20210105&instance_id=25647&nl=the-morning®i_id=69884758&segment_id=48364&te=1&user_id=ac64487ce31388468037e65302c48600">Sugar Challenge</a><br>• An Introduction to <a href="https://www.robertpeng.com/home">Qigong</a> and <a href="http://instituteofintegralqigongandtaichi.org/">Tai Chi</a><br>• A <a href="https://www.breatheandflow.org/about">Yoga</a> Couple Online<br>• Learn to <a href="https://www.rambert.org.uk/">Dance</a> <br>• The Social Life of <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2020/12/02/magazine/tree-communication-mycorrhiza.html?searchResultPosition=4">Forests</a><br>•<a href="https://obefitness.com/?gclid=CjwKCAiAudD_BRBXEiwAudakX_hiBRkh6Iu5-DvGIpiksvLpB48NrihRm-QB28i8M_5NG4am9Pht0BoC2qgQAvD_BwE">Fitness</a> On-demand</p>

Ways for Wellness in 2021

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<p><strong>Salina has given her hair more thought than most people have. A Black woman in her late 50s, she has witnessed shifting social attitudes over the decades and has had to adjust her own attitude accordingly. “To many Black women, our hair is everything,” she says. “It’s just a part of us and our culture.”</strong></p>

<p>But that culture presents a tangle of issues each person has to unravel for themselves. In Salina’s case, “It’s pressure from all sides; from your mate who wants you to have long hair because that’s their vision of beauty; from women competing with each other because women dress for women, not men; from working in a predominately white environment where you don’t want to stand out as radical.” So when Salina cut her hair short 20 years ago, “All I was doing was cutting my hair, but it was me worrying about my husband, me worrying about my son, me worrying about being viewed as radical at work, me worrying about looking more masculine… I said, ‘I’m doing it anyway, and I’m going to work through these issues,’ which I did, one by one.”&nbsp;</p>
<p>Those issues aren’t simply Salina’s personal demons of vanity, but genuine conflicts that reach generations deep. In fact, nobody has more political, emotional, economic or historical meaning attached to their hair than Black women (and men to some degree), especially in the context of white culture. One can spend days on YouTube watching videos dissect the subject; bloggers have made careers out of advising Black women on the fine points of caring for (and often battling) their hair in its infinite variety.</p>
<p>The hottest topic revolves around women “in transition” who are rejecting chemical straightening and joining the “natural hair movement.” Since 2007, relaxer sales have been on the decline as the reality of toxicity and the indignity of injury are no longer acceptable as the price of “good hair,” the title of Chris Rock’s 2007 documentary on Black hair culture, which Salina describes as “spot on.”</p>

<p style="text-align: center;"><em><sub>African threading hairstyles</sub></em></p>

<p style="text-align: center;"><em><sub>Salina Le Bris</sub></em></p>

<h5>THE HISTORY OF BLACK HAIR</h5>
<p>Before the first Africans were brought to British North America in 1619, hair was worn to signify marital status, fertility, manhood, or degree of wealth, debt, social rank, or geographic origin. But aesthetics were just as important, and twisting, <a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/stories/hairstudies-braids-dreads/">braiding</a>, beading, and grooming were social rites that forged meaningful bonds. Hair also had spiritual significance and was thought to possess immense power; because hair is the most elevated part of the body, it was believed that communication from the gods and spirits passed through it to reach the soul. Hairdressers were often considered the most trustworthy members of society and performed grooming rituals that often lasted several hours, and sometimes several days.</p>
<p>So the first thing slave traders often did to their human cargo – if their captors hadn’t already – was to shear hair off to erase identity and culture, inflict humiliation, and make slaves presentable to buyers after journeys overseas. Black hair was referred to as “wool" by white people to liken it to an animal’s. In the 1780s, William Lynch (whose name may be the origin of the term ‘lynching’) hatched a plan to turn slaves against each other with the belief that “divided is powerless,” and used hair type as a wedge. In 1789, laws enacted in Louisiana required Black women to wear fabrics to cover their hair in public, but what was intended to draw less attention garnered even more as wraps became increasingly elaborate and decorative.</p>

<p style="text-align: center;"><em><sub>Mme. C.J. Walker's "Preparations for the Hair"</sub></em></p>

<p>By the time slavery came to an end, the goal of grooming Black hair was to imitate white styles and European beauty ideals. Even more than skin color, hair was the essential indicator of Blackness. Butter, bacon grease, duck fat, or even axle grease were used as preparations for crude styling implements like a heated butter knife, strings, or strips of cloth to wrap around hair to erase kink and elongate curl. Lye (mixed with potatoes to make it less caustic) was a common straightener that could also eat the skin right off a person’s head. In 1845, Madame C.J. Walker popularized the “press and curl” method of styling, and created a line of products to complement the hot combs recently invented in France. Not incidentally, Walker was the first American woman to become a self-made millionaire, and a pioneer in an industry dominated by women.</p>
<p>Black society began to show its own racial divide between lighter skinned people with “good hair,” and dark skinned people with kinky hair. Churches hung fine-toothed combs from doorways and denied membership to those who couldn’t pass it easily through their hair. In 1909, the G. A. Morgan Hair Refining Company marketed the first chemical hair straightener, Black hair oil dye, and a curved-tooth comb for straightening, and declared war on “bad hair.” However, in the 1920s, Black nationalist Marcus Garvey – a Jamaican political leader who promoted the return of the African diaspora to their ancestral lands – encouraged the acceptance of natural hair, saying, “Remove the kinks from your mind, not your hair.”</p>

<p>When bobbed haircuts gained popularity in the 1920s, Black women with scorched hair welcomed it with relief, or began wearing wigs. By contrast, Haile Selassie was crowned the emperor of Ethiopia in 1930, but was forced into exile in 1936 after leading the resistance against the Italian invasion. Sympathetic guerilla warriors vowed not to cut their hair until his release; it became long and matted, and because they were widely feared or dreaded, the term ‘dreadlocks’ was born.</p>
<p>In 1954, George E. Jensen brought a chemical straightener marketed to men to achieve a “winning look,” with hair “cultured the modern way.” A version for women soon followed. In protest, Malcolm X stopped straightening his own hair and maintained that Black people would not break the chains of racism until they learned to love their own appearance.<br></p>


<h5>Remove the kinks from your mind, not your hair.</h5>

<p style="text-align: center;"><em><sub>Josephine Baker in the 1920s</sub></em></p>

<p>In the 1960s, New York hairdresser Camello Casimir, known as Frenchie, helped introduce naturally textured hair to the mainstream. Cicely Tyson starred in television series <em>East Side/West Side</em> wearing cornrows and was harshly criticized by some in the Black community who felt she was portraying a negative image of the Black woman. Activist and author Angela Davis, a leader of the Black Power movement, coined the slogan “Black is Beautiful” and her afro became a symbol of radicalism, and to some aggression and negativity; as recently as 1971, journalist Melba Tolliver was fired from ABC’s New York affiliate for refusing to cover up her afro in order to cover the White House wedding of President Richard Nixon's daughter Tricia. In 1977, Jheri-Curl was invented by hairdresser Jheri Redding – one of the most accomplished product innovators ever – as a wash-and-wear alternative to relaxing that nonetheless relied on pungent chemicals.</p>
<p>With the popularity of the “Natural,” a less sculpted version of the rounded Afro, all kinds of styling opportunities – beads, <a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/stories/hairstudies-braids-dreads/">braids</a>, cornrows, and African-inspired headwraps – brought Black women full circle with looks strikingly similar to tribal styles of 500 years ago. But a tortuous past still informs an uneasy present, continues to incite debate, and leaves women feeling radical simply for wearing their hair how it grows out of their heads and doing the fantastic things that only Black hair can do.</p>

<p style="text-align: center;"><sub>Angela Davis in the 1970s</sub></p>

<h5>BLACK WOMEN HAIR STORIES</h5>
<p>We interviewed several Black women at Hairstory Studio who took the somewhat unusual step of entrusting their hair to group of white hairdressers. Salina is a communications consultant and thus quite eloquent when describing her hair history and journey of self-acceptance. “I had to get to a point where I was okay with my god-given hair, and then I realized what a shame that was. I’m sitting here patting myself on the back for accepting who I really am, and that’s when you see what our culture has done,” she says.</p>

<p>“I don’t necessarily want to speak for the race, but I do see Black women wanting to be accepted by a predominantly white world, and when you think of white women you think of straight, flowy hair,” Salina continues. “I am one of four girls, stair-stepped in age, and we put relaxer in each other’s hair before I learned to do it myself. The process is ongoing; you have to relax your new growth; you’re damaging your hair, and you become obsessed with it. Then you have the ‘I want to go on vacation but I don’t want to worry about my hair,’ so you braid it.” Traditionally speaking, braids are less a style choice than a practical way to keep Black hair tangle-free. “Without them, you can’t just go walking into the ocean. You can’t just go jumping in a pool. Imagine living like that.”</p>

<h5>I had to get to a point where I was okay with my god-given hair, and then I realized what a shame that was. I'm sitting here patting myself on the back for accepting who I really am, and that's when you see what our culture has done.</h5>

<p>Salina’s challenges were related not only to texture but also to length, and were reflected in her relationships. “When I cut my hair, my own son had all these issues, and he had to learn to be okay with me having short hair. That’s a damn shame. My son is a Black man and thinks like a lot of Black men who do love women with long, flowy, beautiful hair. So when my husband [who is french and white] said, ‘Why don’t you just cut it?’ that was such a departure from the way I was raised to think about my hair, or the way a man – my man – would think about me.”</p>

<p style="text-align: center;"><sub>Cassie DaCosta</sub></p>

<p>Cassie DaCosta – a senior at Yale University studying comparative literature and film – recounts a similar hair story. Raised in London and the US by her Gambian father and Zambian mother, she started getting her hair relaxed when she was only 12. “Being the youngest you always get things when your sisters are getting things, even if it might be too early,” she offers as an excuse. “The process wasn't always painful, but sometimes burned. The worst part was, she says, “the breakage and the general idea that if my hair wasn't straightened it wouldn't be "manageable" and would be ‘messy.’ Relaxer took away all my volume and texture, and required me to be at the salon every six weeks for touch-ups. On top of that, I never retained growth because the chemicals were so harsh.”</p>
<p>During Cassie’s junior year of college, she studied in Paris for 9 months. “I knew it would be hard to find a salon I trusted to get my hair relaxed there, so I decided to stop using chemicals or heat and began the transition back to my natural texture.” Easier said than done, however, as “relaxed hair just breaks off, and constant trimming is necessary.” But since cutting off the last of it, “I have felt free and untethered by expectations of respectability and the rules that police Black female beauty.”<br></p>


<p>When discussing the politics attached to Black hair, Cassie cites white women wearing Black hairstyles as a point of contention. “Black woman can be judged for wearing braids or an afro, whereas it is immediately celebrated on white women who never had to struggle for that acceptance.” She recalls Victoria’s Secret model Maria Borges who “wore her natural hair for the first time and everyone was like, ‘OOH!’ They planned it for months in advance. I think the more that people wear natural hair the more people have to realize that it’s a reality.” Cassie was “surprised by the fact that I was surprised” to see actress Viola Davis on the cover of Elle magazine. “It was just her small afro, no frills. I thought, ‘There’s a woman with hair just like mine.’ I hadn’t realized how you never, ever see that on almost any cover; even Black magazines have natural hair that’s coiffed in a certain way.”</p>

<p style="text-align: center;"><sub>Victoria’s Secret model Maria Borges</sub></p>

<p style="text-align: center;"><sub>Viola Davis on the cover of Elle</sub></p>

<p>But Cassie can appreciate both sides. “I think that women who still relax their hair feel attacked by the natural hair movement because people are assuming they must hate themselves. But I think it’s a lot more complicated than that because they feel more comfortable that way. There’s a whole discourse that you’re taught when you’re growing up. You’ve been told that your hair isn’t manageable and you’ve gotten used to getting a single process and not having to think about x, y, and z. So I don’t think it’s fair to judge people who are still relaxing their hair.”</p>

<p></p>
<p>Professional model Marti Ragan doesn’t go on a job without her grandmother’s voice in her head: “White people’s hair products just don’t work in our hair, so don’t put it in there or you’re gonna be upset; it’s going to break your hair off.’” In fact, Black hair products represent an estimated $3 billion market with the lion’s share going to giants L’Oreal and the Alberto-Culver Company. When Marti started modeling, the first agency she signed with said, “You have to wear your hair straight at all times; no one is going to hire you with your hair like that.” On one of her first shoots she was told, “Come as you are, and we’ll work around it,” but when she got there, “I had my hair natural and the stylist took two looks at it and said, ‘What do we do with this?’ He was touching my hair like it was some kind of foreign object so I ended up doing it myself.”</p>
<p></p>

<h5>Who sets the standard of beauty? If you're a 14-year-old girl reading Nylon and seventeen, Teen Vogue, what are you seeing on the pages?</h5>

<p>So Marti started to wear wigs on days when it wasn’t straight, “looser curls, more defined, what my hair was supposed to look like, or so I believed. Then my mom who has been natural and has worn <a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/stories/hairstudies-braids-dreads/">dreads</a> since I was 8 or 9 said, ‘Why are you straightening your hair? Why are you wearing these wigs? You are denying a part of who you are and you need to understand that.’ And I said, ‘Nah, you’re just trippin’; it’s not that deep.’ It’s totally that deep.”</p>
<p>When Marti moved to LA, “I just started wearing the afro because I was going to the beach all the time, swimming a lot, with nobody to straighten my hair. One day an older gentleman was riding his bicycle down the street and he stopped, looked at me and said, ‘Sister, you are so beautiful. Your hair is so beautiful; love and cherish that; it’s special.’ As he says that, a woman behind me says, ‘That’s how they single themselves out. She’s as beautiful as anybody else, but just because she wears her hair like that it doesn’t make her a queen.’ Whoa. So crazy.”</p>

<p>Marti feels a responsibility to the next generation and asks, “Who sets the standard of beauty? If you’re a 14-year-old girl reading <em>Nylon</em> and <em>Seventeen</em>, <em>Teen Vogue</em>, what are you seeing on the pages? If you’re a little Black girl in South Central, if you’re a Latina girl in Washington Heights, if you’re an Asian girl living on the Upper West Side, who are you relating to? Young girls need girls that look like them, and people in the entertainment or fashion industries say, ‘It’s not my job to be a role model.’ But when you choose to do something that millions of people are going to see, you become a role model; you don’t have a choice.”</p>
<p>“Wearing an afro is a part of my roots, a part of who I am,” continues Marti. “If my mom didn’t have ’locks she’d have an afro; my grandmother had an afro, and I’m pretty sure my great-great-great grandmother had an afro when she was out in the fields, and I have to embrace that. We all have shit we don’t want, but you have to make the best of it because what are you going to do?”</p>
<p>But “natural” doesn’t necessarily mean easy. Black women are still led to believe that it isn’t possible without exhaustive, trial-and-error regimens that involve an unnatural number of products. One model listed shampoo, leave-in conditioner, styling creme, oil, and gel in a process that occupied entire Saturdays. Cassie developed a regimen of “preconditioning my hair, and then washing it and conditioning again, and doing twists, and all these things.” She blames blog culture, where many people go for advice and read that certain dense textures can’t be wash-and-go. “But when I came to Hairstory,” she says, “they just washed my hair and let it dry and it looked great. And I thought, ‘Oh. I can do this.’”</p>

<p style="text-align: center;"><sub>Marti Ragan</sub></p>

<h5>It’s nice having fewer products; now I don’t use a conditioner and I don’t feel like I need to prescribe to all those treatments. I don’t have time for any of it. You have to live your life.</h5>

<p>Salina complains: “When I wash with shampoo I can’t comb my hair, even this short; it gets gnarled and starts breaking. Once you dry it you can’t put a comb through it.” Her regimen was typically “shampoo, conditioner, and then some kind of detangling spray after I rinsed out the conditioner. It’s a lot, right?” Salina is now a New Wash convert. “I can wash it every day if I want to without it becoming brittle, which is always a concern, especially since I started coloring it again. I saw a difference immediately, but a week later I noticed how it was detangling. And now, I come out of the shower, and <em>I can comb my hair</em>! That alone sold me.”</p>

<p>Cassie is also impressed. “<a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/products/new-wash/">New Wash</a> has made my hair so much easier to detangle and deal with. It’s the one product that I found that I can just wash my hair with, put a little <a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/products/styling/hair-balm/">Hair Balm</a> in and be done. It’s nice having fewer products; now I don’t use a conditioner and I don’t feel like I need to prescribe to all those treatments. I don’t have time for any of it. You have to live your life.”</p>
<p>Is it a stretch to say that Hairstory is a bridge over the the racial divide, or at least the beginning of the end to segregation of hair salons? Cassie looks forward to the day when “Black women can go anywhere and find someone who knows how to cut their hair, or not have to buy a specific product in a certain kind of store. Hairstory is the only place that cut my hair the way I like the first time around.”</p>

<p>Marti concurs, saying, “I’m fine with Black salons, they’ve always been revenue for the Black community. But in entertainment, in music, fashion, movies, if you’re going to be a hair stylist, you need to know how to do every single type of hair. Because if not, you’re lazy. Not only is it disrespectful to me but also to your craft because it says you don’t care enough to take the time to know.”<br></p>


<h5>“My mom is different from me, and you’re different from me, and Cody next door is different from me, and we’re all different, and we’re all the same, and different doesn’t mean bad, it’s just… I don’t know, it’s just different!”</h5>

<p>If we convince Black women that there is both an easier and better way to care for their amazing hair, haven’t we made a small contribution to equality? If we’ve proved that the increasing segmentation of hair products is absurd, haven’t we done us all a favor? Marti thinks so. “I can use New Wash; my cousin who is also Black and white but has a completely different hair texture can use New Wash, and my best friend whose hair texture is also completely different from mine can. It feels nice to be included.” She believes that the more we talk about race, the better, and quotes her three year-old niece who is Black, white and Japanese: “My mom is different from me, and you’re different from me, and Cody next door is different from me, and we’re all different, and we’re all the same, and different doesn’t mean bad, it’s just… I don’t know, it’s just different!”</p>

<p style="text-align: center;"><sub>Top row from left to right: Mel Burgos, Marti Ragan, Alyson Fraser, Salina Le Bris. Bottom row from left: Aissatou Cisse, Cassie da Costa, Sylvia Keraci.</sub></p>

Color, Curl and Culture

hairstory-jikaiah-shag-bangs-mask.png

<h3 style="text-align: center;">Fall 2020 will be just as unusual as this year’s previous seasons, and hairdressing will still be affected by the Pandemic.&nbsp;</h3>
<p style="text-align: center;">So, as summer closes, we asked a few of our hairdressers their thoughts for fall hair, and two themes emerged: Which are the best cuts when half your face is masked? Which styles should you turn to when your hair is less pampered with fewer salon visits – or simply grown out?</p><h4>Go for the Bang</h4>
<p>Scissor wizard <a href="https://www.instagram.com/wessharpton/">Wes Sharpton</a> proclaims that Fall is the perfect moment for bangs – and his Instagram feed proves his love for them year ‘round. “The weather is great; less humidity means less worrying about fringe sticking to the forehead, or curls shrinking up short, and being generally annoying. Bangs draw the viewer’s eye to the eyes, and in these masked months, our eyes are how we communicate with each other.”</p>

<p>“If you were my client,” he continues, “I’d ask you if you often wear a mask. If you work remotely and people see you primarily on screen, how a mask affects your look wouldn’t be my main consideration. But if you are mostly out and about in the world and your face is usually half-covered, I would have more to consider.”</p>
<p>Wes might steer you away from curtain bangs if you’re a heavy mask-wearer, “because too much of your face would be hidden. I’d suggest bangs that are straight across or slightly curved to reveal more of your eyes. Or a longer bang that sits at the cheekbone – those side bits that we love and see most often with a shag cut – would avoid getting hair trapped in mask straps. Comfort is key.” </p><h4>The Shag Shines On</h4>
<p>Hairdresser and curl specialist <a href="https://www.instagram.com/jikaiahstylist/">Jikiaih Stevens</a> is on the same wavelength as Wes, and is also getting into bangs. In addition, “I’m still seeing the natural textures and voluminous shapes of the past few seasons,” she says. “And with the Pandemic still upon us, low-maintenance cuts that have room to grow are very important.”</p>

<p>To that end, “I’m doing a lot of razor-cut <a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/stories/2018/11/13/baby-bangs-micro-fringe-and-bettie-bangs-hair-goes-highbrow/">baby bangs</a>,” she says, “to maintain a strong defined style as they grow out and downward.” Bangs are a defining quality of the Shag, one of Jikaiah’s favorite cuts: “It gives my clients multiple lengths and shapes over the next few months.”</p><h4>Long Styles Coming</h4>
<p>Since COVID has changed how often people are getting their hair done in salons, hairdresser <a href="https://www.instagram.com/pincurlsandpaint/">Jennifer Covington-Bowers</a> sees the need for protective styles like braids and twists for highly-textured hair as it grows. And for those who took the opportunity to grow their hair during the past several months, “I see a real interest in trying styles such as updos and chignons.”</p>

Fall 2020 Hair Forecast

hairstory-brunette-curls-streetscape-black.jpeg

<h3 style="text-align: center;">You inspire us. Help us inspire the world’s curiosity about Hairstory. </h3>
<p>Now more than ever, it is important for us to hold ourselves accountable for representing the diverse beauty within the Hairstory community. </p>
<p>As you may know, the usual collaboration a proper photoshoot requires is nearly impossible for now, yet the resulting images are essential to spreading the Hairstory love and marketing our message.</p>
<p>So we’re enlisting you – our loyal customers and their hairdressers – to help us, and make some extra money doing it. This is an open call for <a href="https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1Ekw1CHVf8yFS_wVRHT8NpRzZlXRLGHU0wMBG7L_RfLw/viewform?edit_requested=true">submissions</a> of your best hair-related photos and videos, and we will pay you $50 for each image we use. </p>
<p>Here are examples of the types of images we’re looking for:</p>
<p></p><h4>Proud People | All Hair Colors, Cuts & Types</h4>

<h4>Back Views | All Hair Colors, Cuts & Types</h4>

<h4>Ponytails | All Hair Colors & Types</h4>

<h4>Easy Updos | All Hair Colors & Types</h4>

<h4>Casual Braids | All Hair Colors & Types</h4>

<p>While current events act as a reminder to showcase diversity, we value inclusion and acceptance at Hairstory and we celebrate it, now and always.Our values of inclusivity, authenticity, and innovation are reflected by the fact that our products work with all hair textures.</p>
<p>With this in mind, we invite you to participate and help us continue to tell a different story.</p>
<h5>Guidelines</h5>
<p>• Show healthy hair and healthy lifestyles.<br>• Keep your frame focused on head-and-shoulders.<br>• Use simple clothing and accessories that don’t distract from the hair. <br>• “Real life” backgrounds work well, indoors and out.</p><ul></ul>
<h5>Formats and Resolution</h5>
<p>• Most formats, including jpg, tiff, gif, mov, and mp4.<br>• Any proportion, but make sure that either the width or height is 1080 pixels (px).<br>• Resolution: 300dpi</p>
<h5>Submissions</h5>
<p>• Submit your photos and videos <a href="https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1Ekw1CHVf8yFS_wVRHT8NpRzZlXRLGHU0wMBG7L_RfLw/viewform?edit_requested=true">here</a>. <br>• We will let you know if we choose your submission(s) and arrange compensation of $50 per image.</p>
<p><em>We can’t wait to see what you can do!</em></p>
<p>Questions? Please reach out to <a href="mailto:marketing@hairstory.com">marketing@hairstory.com</a></p>

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