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<h4>You have probably been going to hair salons since you can remember. But even veteran clients admit confusion about how much to tip and to whom. Gratuities in restaurants are relatively easy to calculate, and we do it automatically (unless there’s a bug in the soup or a bug up a server’s you-know-what). But after we’ve had our hair washed, cut, colored and styled, often by multiple people, what’s the etiquette? Are we supposed to tip the owner? The assistants? The shampooist? Their dog? We did some research for you and consulted stylists to help you understand how it works and to appreciate just how much your tip really means to them (a lot, in most cases).</h4>

<h5><strong>The Business Models</strong></h5>
<p>To start, put yourself in hairdressers’ shoes (which they stand in all day long) and understand the various business models that they operate in, from traditional salons to various forms of self-employment. Those stylists who are employees of salons usually earn their living on commission and are paid for the services they performed, but only keep a somewhere between 40 to 60 percent of the price you pay.</p>
<p>The remaining percentage goes to the salon for overhead expenses like utilities, products used (color chemicals, shampoo, and conditioner, etc.), and amenities. Many stylists are also responsible for personal supplies and tools (such as shears, blow-dryers, and curling irons), and continuing education (if not provided by the salon owner). So even the busiest stylist may only make take home enough money to cover life’s essentials.</p>
<p>More and more stylists are choosing self-employment instead and renting chairs in salons or suites in co-working environments. This means paying a weekly or monthly fee ranging from $500-1000 per month, depending on the region. The advantage is keeping 100 percent of their service fees and tips. The downside is being responsible for the cost of everything else – from color bowls to coffee cups – and expenses such as liability insurance and credit card fees.</p>
<p>In other words, the “owner” distinction is less clear than it used to be, and traditional owners with no part in your service need not be tipped. If you’re not sure which business model your hairdresser operates under, just ask. They’ll be glad you did. Bring up the subject with something like, “I really want to take care of you, because you take care of me. Can we talk about tips?”</p>
<h5><strong>Those Helping Hands</strong></h5>
<p><strong></strong><strong></strong>Assistants are the unsung heroes of haircare – and the most undervalued. Their passion is the only thing that buoys them through months (sometimes years) of pouring coffee, sweeping floors, mixing the color and working the lather until their fledgling talent flowers and they become stylists in their own right. Assistants are usually paid a day rate by the salon owner, and a small portion of the day’s tips are usually shared with them. It’s fair to say they’re living on (and for) your tips.</p>
<p>According to asssistant Dustin Heath who is also building his own clientele, “My job is to to be there every step of the way and make the experience for the client more efficient and comfortable. While I am being helpful I’m also learning how a proper consultation is held, and how an appointment should ‘roll.’ So, tipping not only shows appreciation for attentiveness, but is also a reflection of my growth.”</p>
<p>To get down to dollars and cents, or as hairdresser Jason Devastation says, “brass tacks,” the general consensus is: Tip stylists in the neighborhood of 20 percent on a service performed to your satisfaction. “I do tip my assistant,” says Jason. “And I encourage my clients to tip him as well. People tend to give from $3 to $5 for a hair washing. I’ve seen some of my clients give $10, or $20 occasionally. It also depends on the work that the assistant is doing. If they are also blow drying your hair, helping to apply color, then I would expect the tip to be higher. But yeah, it’s vague,” he admits. “It’s always been vague.”</p>
<p>If you’re in for more than one service and one person does your color and another performs a cut and blow-dry, they both deserve 20 percent on top of their regular fees. If you’re lucky enough to get a complimentary bang-trim or touch-up, by all means tip about 10 percent of the original service.</p>
<p>If you find yourself in the position of being a hair model for a hairdresser or are friendly with one who refuses charge you full price, boost that tip to 30 percent or more of the actual value. And remember, cash is king.</p>
<h5><strong>Locks Gone Wrong</strong></h5>
<p><strong></strong>But what happens when you receive a service that leaves you unsatisfied? Should you still tip? Well, No, and yes. No at the time of the initial service, but yes after you’ve come back and given him or her a chance to redeem themselves and make you happy. If they do, 20 percent still applies, especially if they fix it for free (and they should).</p>
<p>But remember that you are in charge of your self-esteem. Don’t be that client who will never be satisfied no matter how attentive the service provider is. But if you don’t clearly express your displeasure nor give them a chance to make it right, skimping on the tip is simply passive-aggressive.</p>
<h5><strong>A Little Extra</strong></h5>
<p><strong></strong>Always consider adding a little extra if you're a new client, if your stylist is spending a significant amount of time on your consultation, if you're doing an extreme makeover, or if you showed up late (stylists hate that). Holiday time is another story. “I don't expect gifts from my friends, I don't expect gifts from family even,” says Jason. “It's a nice gesture of appreciation and purely optional. I have clients who religiously tip me at the end of the year. They may give me $100 or the price of a haircut, and it's my little holiday bonus. Tipping gives people the opportunity to feel generous. And we kind of count on it.”</p>
<p></p>
<p></p>

Tips for Tipping Stylists: Take care of those who take care of you

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<h4 style="text-align: center;">When it comes to hair, there’s nothing new under the sun, and this year’s trendy bangs perching just below the hairline are no exception.</h4><p style="text-align: center;">Tiny bangs (also known as micro fringe) made it big in the 1950s thanks to red carpet stars Elizabeth Taylor, Joanne Woodward, Audrey Hepburn, and Natalie Wood, pictured below. (Model Bettie Paige is a banglet poster girl; more on her later.) These iconic women paired their straight hair baby fringe with a <a href="https://www.hairstory.com/blog/hairstyles-for-short-hair/" target="_self">short haircut</a> like a bob or a pixie cut. At the time, this short fringe was a new take on the traditional bangs that extended to a woman's eyebrows.</p>

<h5>EVERYTHING OLD IS NEW AGAIN</h5><p>Today’s version of the hair trend&nbsp;incorporates&nbsp;the same highbrow profile but works with all kinds of textures and cuts, including long hair and curly hair.</p><p>But before you jump on the baby bang-wagon, there are a few things to consider to avoid looking like a goth doll (though some may love to) like your face shape and hair texture as well as how manageable the wispy bangs look will be for you. On the fence? Buy a wig or some faux bangs, trim to fit, and take a series of selfies before committing in the salon.</p><h5>HOW TO CUT BABY BANGS</h5><p>Get your head around the fact that while a curtain bang or long fringe offers cover in a sexy, mysterious way, super short bangs do the opposite by opening the face, exposing the eyes, and begging the wearer to be noticed. Confidence is key here.<br/><br/> According to scissor wizard Wes Sharpton, “It’s all about the triangle.” Cutting bangs requires creating a triangular section with the apex lying somewhere between the crown and the hairline, with its base narrowing or widening across the brow depending on hair density and the contours of the hairline. “The triangle may be narrower for thicker hair with natural volume, or wider and farther back to make&nbsp;bangs on fine hair more substantial. Cutting short bangs requires understanding how hair reacts once you release the weight that comes with length.”</p><h5>HOW TO STYLE BABY BANGS</h5><p>Once you’ve got your baby fringe, be prepared to spend some time grooming it (because until it grows out it can’t be easily clipped or slicked back). By day, stylists often recommend – appropriately – a baby flat iron as the best, least effortful way to keep them in line. At night, sleep with a silk headband strapped over the forehead, or wear a snug beanie to press bangs pressed in place while asleep, and save some precious time in the morning hours. (Remember that silk is less absorbent and potentially dehydrating than cotton).<br/><br/> Depending on your hair texture, you’ll need liquid products to work through your hair while it’s damp before styling. For fine to medium hair, start with a lightweight leave-in conditioner (like Hairstory&nbsp;<a href="https://www.hairstory.com/products/styling/hair-balm/" target="_self">Hair Balm</a>); coarser, curlier hair may respond better to a blow-dry lotion (try Hairstory&nbsp;<a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/catalogue/dressed-up_5/" target="_self">Dressed Up</a>). Position the blow-dryer behind and above the hairline and direct the air downward to work out kinks and help hair to fall naturally. Then cup a hand against your forehead while hair cools (as if thinking, ‘OMG I can’t believe I got these bangs!’). &nbsp;</p>

<p>If you’re using a flat-iron, you’ll need the heat protection that Dressed Up offers. Take the top section of that triangle mentioned above, move it aside and iron the subsection first, pulling straight down and toward the brow so bangs conform to your forehead and don’t stick straight out.<br>
<br>
People with straight hair may have an advantage here, but Wes is one stylist who encourages people with all textures to adopt a more lived-in attitude. “It feels more modern to be less obsessive with less manipulation,” he says. Stick with the products you love and let them – and the cut – do the work. “Your natural texture is what makes bangs customized to you.”</p>
<h5>THE BETTIE EFFECT</h5>
<p>
A special subset of baby-bangers is the decidedly adult Bettie Page, model and titled Pin-up Queen whose jet-black hair, blue eyes, and trademark fringe still inspires many a modern, retro-inspired vixen, such as actor Krysten Ritter. Bettie was caviar to the purchasers of girlie mags, and the Garbo of bondage movies and the 13th model to grace the centerfold of a new slick magazine called Playboy. Her trademark graphic fringe was often painstakingly trimmed in an inverted chevron and polished to an onyx perfection. If you lean toward a goth-inspired and 50s glam, these bangs are for you.</p>


<h5>Life on the Fringe</h5>
<p>Whether it's a short gamine cut, a lob, or long layers, simply adding baby bangs will quickly transform your entire look, and they work equally well whether you wear your hair down or up. The good news: Baby bangs won’t last more than a month or two if you find them too extreme. They’ll soon meet your brow and take you from ’50s starlet to ’60s rocker; how far beyond that is up to you and your hairdresser. So bang on!</p>

Baby Bangs and Micro Fringe: Hair Goes Highbrow

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<p>Frizz (from the French friser: to curl) has become a dirty word in the hair world. Fight it; ease it; calm it – battalions of bottles are deployed to erase it. But, it should be said that hair going against the grain and not falling in line is a natural phenomenon that although vilified in our current era has been celebrated in others as a halo effect. Look at photos of silent screen star Mary Pickford or pre-Raphaelite paintings of feathery masses of ringlets. Remember 1980s perms and crimps? Fabulously frizzed!</p>
<h5><strong>But beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and if you behold a head of unmanageable floss, well, this article is for you.</strong></h5>
<p>Frizz or fuzziness appears naturally when one of two things happen. First, new hairs that haven’t caught up with older, longer ones (the average lifespan is about six years) can protrude from the prevailing texture but can be easily smoothed down with a number of products. The second isn’t quite as simple, and is all about the cuticle.</p>
<p>The cuticle is the outer layer of each hair strand that looks like a shingled roof, or snakeskin scales. When hair is smooth, those shingles lie flat – a challenge with the twists and turns of curls. But many things you do without thinking cause those shingles to lift, allowing water to escape – and to enter. When water leaves, hair is dehydrated. When water is forced in, or hair is over-exposed to a humid environment, it penetrates the hair shaft and is absorbed by the cortex, causing the proteins there to swell, and the shaft to twist and bend irregularly. So, how do you keep those cuticles smooth and closed?</p>
<h5>1. Start with washing.</h5>
<p>Choose a shampoo with the mildest detergent possible – or without detergent at all. Look for a cleanser with glycerin high up in the ingredient list (ingredients nearer the top are higher in percentage), since it helps to hydrate hair from the inside out and creates a protective coating. Hairstory&nbsp;<a href="https://www.hairstory.com/products/new-wash/">New Wash</a> cleanses with oils rather than detergent and lists glycerin fifth on the list. And be gentle; never bunch up your hair or scrub roughly.</p>
<h5>2. Blot, don’t rub.</h5>
<p><strong></strong>When drying your curls, blot and press water from hair rather than roughing it up with a towel to help keep cuticles calm. Try Aquis microfiber towels and turbans instead of terrycloth.</p>
<h5>3. Moisturize.</h5>
<p><strong></strong>Use a moisturizer on your hair – just as you do your skin – to prevent the cuticle from opening up and letting water in or out (we recommend Hairstory <a href="https://www.hairstory.com/products/styling/hair-balm/">Hair Balm</a>, also high in glycerin as the second ingredient). Natural oils are key here as they are absorbed more easily than synthetics like silicone. While hair is still wet, apply creme from midshaft to ends, avoiding roots to preserve lift. Then, wrap your curls around your fingers to shape them, and let them air dry. You can also use a diffuser on low speed, high heat (aim it down-shaft toward the tips to avoid lifting the cuticle).</p>
<h5>4. Cool it.</h5>
<p><strong></strong>Avoid flat irons and curling irons, and limit heat sources to a blow dryer with a diffuser. Too much hot air focused directly on your strands dehydrates it, and if it’s very wet basically boils it. Let your hair air-dry 90 percent of the way, and then use a dryer on it for the last 10 percent. Spin a round brush through your hair as you blow dry to help direct cuticles to lay flat.</p>
<h5>5. Sleep in silk.</h5>
<p><strong></strong>No matter how high your thread count, your cotton pillowcase may be dehydrating your hair, as well as latching onto hair fibers and pulling it apart. Try silk instead, or sleep with hair in a bun cocooned in a silk scarf (occasionally steeped in Hair Balm as a moisture treatment). Yes, you might look like Lucy bedding down with Desi, but it’s a small, retro-inspired price to pay.</p>
<h5>6. Don't brush.</h5>
<p><strong></strong>The most effective fix might be the simplest one: Avoid brushing hair after it dries. Brushing not only disrupts your hair's cuticle, but it can also stretch it, make it prone to breakage, and create static.</p>
<h5>7. Under-process.</h5>
<p><strong></strong>Relaxers and straighteners can make hair brittle and fragile. Think of changing texture occasionally with styling products, not permanently with chemicals. Color? Talk with your colorist about minimizing bleaching.</p>
<h5>8. Get a haircut.</h5>
<p><strong></strong>Split ends are obvious frizz culprits. Fraying not only allows moisture loss; it simply looks fuzzy. Your hairdresser might be missing you.</p>
<p>In summary: As in most things, moderation is key, and in this case what you don’t do may be more important than what you do. So if you’re on the losing end of fighting frizz, turn up the moisture, turn down the heat, don’t go against the grain, and by all means keep those critical cuticles calm.</p>

Frizz Facts: A Smoother Path to Styling

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<h3 style="text-align: center;">Experiencing hair breakage, frizz and split ends?&nbsp;</h3>
<p style="text-align: center;">Sounds like a classic case of hair dryness.&nbsp;Struggling with dry hair is no fun. If you’re one of the many people who use words like straw, tumbleweed or bird’s nest to describe what grows atop your head, take heart: But don't worry, you're not doomed with a dry hair type, it's a condition. And restoring healthy hair is totally achievable.</p><h4>DRY HAIR CAUSES</h4>
<p>Dealing with hair dryness starts with assessing the various causes. Some of the most common include over-washing hair, hair damage from excessive use of heat styling, the toxic formulas of your hair products and chemical-laden hair color. </p>
<h5>1. Your Favorite Heat Styling Tool </h5>
<p>We know you think you can't live without your beloved curling iron, but more often than not, heat styling is a leading contributor to dry, damaged hair. The best way to reduce damage from your tools is to use them less, but we know that can be tough. At the very least, make sure you use a heat protection spray. </p>
<h5> 2. Shampooing (& Overwashing) Your Hair </h5>
<p>Like washing your face, you may have made washing hair a daily ritual to remove dirt and oil. Unfortunately, this process actually strips your hair and can lead to dry scalp and hair breakage. Moreover, shampoo is made from detergent molecules that are created to attach firmly to water and anything oily, so when you shampoo and rinse, the oily substances – the ones you want and the ones you don’t – are lifted from hair strands and the natural sebum barrier (a waxy lubricant that protects the hair cuticle and keeps it shiny) is destroyed.</p>
<h5>3. Bleach and Hair Color</h5>
<p>If you dye your hair religiously, you've probably seen a loss in some of your hair's natural shine. Unfortunately, the use of toxic chemicals in hair dye makes dry, dull hair somewhat unavoidable. If you're not up for rocking your natural hair color, try limiting the frequency with which you visit the salon for those highlights. </p>
<h5>4. The Environment </h5>
<p>If the weather outside is frightful, you may notice that your hair is, too. Extreme temperatures, either hot or cold, can take a toll on your scalp and strands. Where possible, limit your exposure to extreme elements. </p>
<p>Note: If dryness is accompanied by fatigue, intolerance to cold, weakness or hair loss, you should consult your doctor about possible underlying conditions.<strong></strong></p>

<h5>THE BIOLOGY BEHIND MOISURE</h5>
<p>Here’s the most important thing to understand: In the absence of conditions such as hormone imbalance, birth control pills, pregnancy, and menopause, your body has the mechanism to keep hair and skin optimally moisturized. Sebaceous glands that live in clusters around your hair follicles secrete an oily, waxy substance called sebum to waterproof and lubricate (and perform other wondrous functions related to guarding against bacteria and regulating the consistency of sweat). It’s an important system that in some people can be either over- or underproductive, but for all of us, it’s fragile and can easily be disrupted. And disruption is guaranteed if you use a detergent-based shampoo, and parched hair will never become otherwise. In fact, you’d be better off rinsing with water alone.</p>

<h5>HOW TO FIX DRY HAIR</h5>

<p>So what can be done to help with dry hair? Well, it’s likely that your hairdresser tells you to keep shampooing to a minimum because they intuitively understand the problem, and when you shampoo less frequently, you won't deplete more moisture by blow drying and heat-styling as often. That’s a fine start, but why not eliminate shampoo altogether? We don’t mean walking around with greasy, stinky hair; we simply suggest a cleanser that’s more in line with the one you probably use on your face.</p>
<p>Hairstory New Wash is just such a cleanser. It has all the cleansing benefits of shampoo but none of the risks. Instead of detergent, it is formulated with an ingenious blend of essential oils and saturated fats that dissolve the impurities you don’t want while respecting the sebum that you need.</p>

<p>An added benefit is that it conditions while it cleanses, eliminating the need for a second product (and often a third or fourth once you’re out of the shower).</p>
<p>At a time when the trends in hairwear run toward the natural, unfussed “I woke up this way” variety, the intrinsic condition of hair is more important than ever. The idea that you can do more with less is gaining ground for good reason. So next time you’re in the shower, you might take a look at the old ways you’ve been managing your hair and remember that there’s a new way: New Wash.</p>

<h5>SHOWER POWER</h5>
<p>So what can be done to&nbsp;<a href="https://www.moneycrashers.com/tips-care-dry-skin-hair-winter/">help with dry hair</a>? Well, it’s likely that your hairdresser tells you to keep shampooing to a minimum because they intuitively understand the problem, and when you shampoo less frequently, you won't deplete more moisture by blow drying and heat-styling as often. That’s a fine start, but why not eliminate shampoo altogether? We don’t mean walking around with greasy, stinky hair; we simply suggest a cleanser that’s more in line with the one you probably use on your face.</p>
<h4>When you shampoo less frequently, you won't deplete more moisture by blow drying and heat-styling as often. That’s a fine start, but why not eliminate shampoo altogether?</h4>
<p>Hairstory New Wash is just such a cleanser. It has all the cleansing benefits of shampoo but none of the risks. Instead of detergent, it is formulated with an ingenious blend of essential oils and saturated fats that dissolve the impurities you don’t want while respecting the sebum that you need. An added benefit is that it conditions while it cleanses, eliminating the need for a second product (and often a third or fourth once you’re out of the shower).</p>
<p>At a time when the trends in hairwear run toward the natural, unfussed “I woke up this way” variety, the intrinsic condition of hair is more important than ever. The idea that you can do more with less is gaining ground for good reason. So next time you’re in the shower, you might take a look at the old ways you’ve been managing your hair and remember that there’s a new way:&nbsp;<a href="https://www.hairstory.com/products/new-wash/new-wash-original/">New Wash</a>.</p>

No More Dry Scalp: How to Moisturize Your Scalp and Hair

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<h4>When you unravel the bun – a hairstyle that certain women do (and undo) a dozen times before noon (you know who you are), you find multicultural strands of historical treasure. Sure, it gets hair off the face, out of the eyes, and away from harm, but does the bun have mystical powers? Is the topknot a tantric antenna? A status symbol? And where did the hair bun originate? The next time you reach up to do that twist, maybe you’ll think about it a bit differently.  </h4>

<h5>CHINA</h5>
<p>In traditional Southern China, single women arranged their hair in a braid, while married women wore a bun tied at the top of the head. The fifteenth birthday was occasion for a coming-of-age Hair Pinning Ceremony when a girl’s hair was washed, combed into a twist, held together with a pin, and declared eligible for marriage. (Widows with no intention of remarrying shaved their heads as a sign of indifference.) Buddha is famously depicted wearing a topknot.</p>

<h5>INDIA</h5>
<p>In the Ayurvedic system, hair is seen as an extension of the etheric spine, taking in life force or prana to increase vitality and intuition. A Rishi is known as a wise one who coils his or her hair up during the day and combs it down at night. When hair is tied up in a traditional ‘Rishi knot,’ it is believed to absorb and emit spiritually pure vibrations. The circular shape keeps energy moving in a clockwise manner and retains it within the body.</p>

<h5>JAPAN</h5>
<p>Samurai used the topknot, or chonmage to keep their helmets in place. Sumo wrestlers’ topknots are styled by exactly 55 authorized master hairdressers at any given time, using four kinds of boxwood combs, a stick, string made from wax paper, and a pomade of chamomile oil and wax. When a wrestler retires, an elaborate ceremony is held to cut his knot; friends, family, and patrons take turns snipping, and the stable master takes the final chop.</p>

<h5>NEW ZEALAND</h5>
<p>The indigenous Polynesian people who migrated to New Zealand around 1300 BCE used oils from berries and wooden or bone combs to style their hair, but only men of elevated status would wear a topknot, or tikitiki.</p>

<h5>GREECE</h5>
<p>The women of Ancient Greece wore a style now known as the Greek knot. A simple, low-lying bun at the nape was typically adorned with jewelry as a status symbol.</p>

<h5>KOREA</h5>
<p>During the Joseon Dynasty, married men put their hair in a topknot, or sangtu. A pin and a band worn on the forehead held it together. Hats were specially made with space for buns.</p>

<h5>ENGLAND</h5>
<p>Fashionable 1800s society in Regency England was crazy for ancient Greece and Rome. Women wore hair up at the back of the head. Victorians parted hair in the middle with a high-sitting bun and corkscrew curls around the face and ears, or braids hanging in loops around the ears.</p>

<h5>AMERICA</h5>
<p>The Victorian bun transformed into the looser and more natural Gibson Girl version – a feminine ideal of ease and stylishness as portrayed by the illustrator Charles Dana Gibson during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Hair was worn air piled high in a pompadour with a small bun perched on top.</p>

<h5>EUROPE</h5>
<p>Ballet was born in the Italian Renaissance courts of the 15th century primarily to entertain aristocrats. The bun is still required today – “bunhead” is still a ballet student’s affectionate term – to punctuate the elegant line of the body, ensure uniformity, and may be adorned for performance with flowers, jewels, or a headpiece.</p>

Hair History: Topknots & Buns

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<h3 style="text-align: center;">Micro braids, goddess braids, Ghana braids, snake, mohawk, dutch, french, halo, fishtail, waterfall… it seems there are as many types of braids as there are types of hair.&nbsp;</h3>
<p style="text-align: center;">Nearly 5 million braiding videos are available on YouTube, and here in the famous melting pot of New York City, a parade of braided styles can be seen on any day. Braids are highly functional – but their historical roots run eons deep, and tell fascinating social, spiritual, and geopolitical stories.</p><h4>WHERE DID BRAIDS ORIGINATE?</h4>
<p>Africa, considered the cradle of civilization, is also home to the most famous and intricate braids or plaits, but braids have been worn around the world. The oldest record of braids is a carved statuette of unknown origin called the Venus (or Woman) of Willendorf, estimated to have been made 30,000 years ago as a fertility fetish, which features woven hair capping a voluptuous body.</p>

<p><sub>A bust of a Roman woman from the Flavian era</sub></p>

<h4>Egypt</h4>
<p>Ancient egyptians have a reputation for invention, including paper, toothpaste, calendars, math, and even condoms. And while they may not have invented braiding – combining three strands of material into one – their hairstyles reflected wealth, age and social group. Young girls wore braids or ponytails. Royalty wore braided wigs, as did elders to hide the lack of hair or greyness.</p>
<p>Braids were adorned with berries, petals, linen ribbons, or as a show of status, threaded with gold. Braids were often used as extensions to thicken hair. For men, beards were a symbol of divinity and not worn by the everyman, but those who did braided them in the style of Tutankhamun’s gold burial mask. Queen Meryet-Amun was entombed with extra braids for a stylish afterlife.</p>

<h5>Braids were a sign of wealth and the leisure it affords; the more elaborate, the better.</h5><h4>Greece</h4>
<p>To differentiate themselves from Egyptians, classical Greek women grew hair much longer, and pulled it back into chignons. Many styles involved braids fixed to the head and decorated with flowers, headbands, ribbons and pieces of metal. Braids were a sign of wealth and the leisure it affords; the more elaborate, the better.</p><h4>Italy</h4>
<p>During the reign of the Emperor Augustus, detailed hairstyles came into fashion as an expression of wealth and status. False hair pieces made hair thicker and longer. Sophisticated braids and knots were adorned with pearls and jewelled pins.</p><h4>Americas</h4>
<p>In Native American tradition, hair is a signifier of one’s spiritual practice. Combing represents the alignment of thought; braiding is the Oneness of thought, and tieing is the securing of thought. Flowing strands of hair are considered individually weak, but when joined in braids they demonstrate strength in unity. Letting hair flow free demonstrates harmony with the flow of life, and braiding indicates thoughts of oneness.</p><figure><br></figure>

<p><sub>Inuit woman, Nowadluk, with long hair</sub></p>

<p><sub>Chief Gall's granddaughter wearing braids adorned with shells</sub></p>

<p><sub>The queue worn by Manchus of Manchuria</sub></p>

<h4>China</h4>
<p>For centuries, the Manchu dynasty forced people to wear hairstyles prescribed by rank, and rice farmers wore braids down the back. When Yat-sen, the chinese leader of the late 20th century overthrew the Manchu dynasty to bring people out of feudalism, he encouraged braid-cutting, which became common in urban areas; but braids were so deeply rooted in rural tradition that murder and suicide were committed in their defense.</p>

<h5>...braids were so deeply rooted in rural tradition that murder and suicide were committed in their defense.</h5><h4>Africa</h4>
<p>Arguably, the richest hair traditions have been sustained – some might say reborn – from their origins in Africa. Tribal cultures endowed hair with spiritual significance and immense power. As the most elevated part of the body, hair was believed to be the conduit for gods and spirits to reach the soul. Hairdressers were trustworthy members of society, senior women, family or close friends with whom tribal bonds could be cemented, and grooming rituals often lasted several hours, even several days.</p><h5>As the most elevated part of the body, hair was believed to be the conduit for gods and spirits to reach the soul.</h5><br>

<p>Twisting, braiding, beading, and grooming also forged meaningful bonds between elders and children, and traditional techniques were thus passed along generations. Braiding customs were both ritual and social service, but requiring no reward or pay; it was in fact unlucky to offer thanks.</p>
<p>Loose hair can indicate a lack of hygiene and tidiness, while being groomed shows good health and manners; ceremonies for the dead are the only acceptable time to let hair loose. Practically speaking, fire and fire dances are typically a part of social rites, and braiding hair keeps it safer from open flame.</p>
<p>Details vary from tribe to tribe: Mangbetu women plait hair and arrange hair in cone-shaped basket frames decorated with bone needles. Miango women decorate braids with scarves and leaves. Massai men stiffen them with animal dung, and Himba women mix red ochre, butter, ash and herbs to coat them; a girl is entitled to only two braids, and acquires more once she marries. Himba men wear one braid, and tie it into a turban after marriage. Mbalantu women put finely grounded tree bark and oil into their hair starting at the age of 12 to help it grow long and thick, and braid it into elaborate headdresses throughout their lives.</p>

<p><sub>A Mende style, 1970; photo by Rebecca Busselle</sub></p>

<p><sub>A girl of the Himba tribe</sub></p>

<p><sub>A Dan style from Côte d’Ivoire, 1939</sub></p>

<p>Common African tribal beliefs include: Hair should be cut on a full moon for it to grow longer; twopeople braiding a person’s hair at the same time could result in the death of one groomer; pregnant women should not braid others’ hair; hair should not be combed or braided in the open.</p>
<p>Twisting, braiding, beading, and grooming also forged meaningful bonds between elders and children, and traditional techniques were thus passed along generations.</p><h4>HISTORY OF DREADS<br> </h4>
<p>Telling a very different story are dreadlocks, or “nature’s braids.” When hair is left ungroomed long enough – and coaxed into form by hand with various unguents – it will naturally knot into rope.<br><br>Theories on the origin of the term <em>dreadlocks</em> vary, but most agree that a socio-religious movement founded by Marcus Garvey in Harlem in the early 20th century attracted an enthusiastic following amongst Black Jamaicans. Based on the Bible, African tribal culture, and Hinduism that had recently taken hold in the West Indies, Garvey promoted the return of the African diaspora to ancestral lands – and abhorred the chemical relaxing of hair, saying, “Remove the kinks from your mind, not your hair.”</p>

<p><sub>Ethiopian Emperor Ras Tafari</sub></p>

Remove the kinks from your mind, not your hair.

<p>The followers of this movement grew matted locks of hair, and called themselves Dreads, signifying that they dreaded, or respected God. Turning their focus on the Ethiopian Emperor Ras Tafari, Haile Selassie, they thus became known as Rastafarians. Selassie was crowned emperor of Ethiopia in 1930, but was forced into exile in 1936 after leading the resistance against the Italian invasion.</p>
<p>Some say that sympathetic guerilla warriors vowed not to cut their hair until Selassie’s release; it became long and matted, and because they were widely feared or dreaded, the term ‘dreadlocks’ was coined. Others say Rastafarians believed Selassie was a biblically sanctioned God – even the second coming of Christ – and as the Bible describes the return of Jesus as the Lion of Judah, dreadlocks were a symbol of the lion’s mane.</p>
<p>Though the term is local, the phenomenon is global – though it should be said that as human history began in Africa it stands to reason that the locking of human hair has origins there as well. The first archaeological record is Egyptian, where ancient mummies have been discovered with dreads still intact. Ancient pharaohs wore them as seen in tomb carvings, drawings and other artifacts.</p><h5>The first archaeological record is Egyptian, where ancient mummies have been discovered with dreads still intact. Ancient pharaohs wore them as seen in tomb carvings, drawings and other artifacts.</h5>
<p>Dreads were worn by Romans in the celtic era, Vikings, germanic tribes, monks in the Ethiopian Orthodox Church, Nazarites of Judaism, Qalandris, Sufis, Sadhus of Hinduism, Dervishes of Islam, and early Christians. In 2500 BCE, The Vedas, Hinduism’s oldest scriptures, depicted the Shiva wearing locks, or jaTaa in Sanskrit.</p>
<p>Frescoes in Santorini, Greece made 3600 years ago, and over half of extant ancient Greek Kouros sculptures depict men with dreads. Spartan warriors were shown with them on their battle robes.</p>

<p><sub>Fresco from Akrotiri, 1600–1500 BCE</sub></p>

<p>The first Bishop of Jerusalem, James the Just, was thought to have dreads to his ankles. Yogis, Gyanis and Tapasvis are among famous wearers. In Buddhism, dreads are symbolic of material non-attachment; students in classical India on a spiritual path grew them to detach from physical vanity and to develop mental and spiritual powers.</p>

<p style="text-align: center;"><sub>Photo by Joseph Lawrence, from his Holy Men series.</sub></p>

<h5>Many traditions teach that the top of the head – the crown <em>chakra</em> as it is most widely known – is the portal for physical, mental and spiritual energies.</h5>
<p>Many traditions teach that the top of the head – the crown <em>chakra</em> as it is most widely known – is the portal for physical, mental and spiritual energies. If hair is uncut, and knotted, it can store energy within the body to maintain strength and health, or as Rastafarians say, hair is our “God antennae.”</p>
<p>Dreadlocks: Spiritual intent, supernatural power, non-violence, non-conformity, communalism, socialism, solidarity... that is the power of hair.</p>

Hair Studies: Braids & Dreads

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<h3 style="text-align: center;">The times: Are they a-changin’? Civil liberty is taken for granted these days, especially in places as prosaic as the American barber shop. We have our hair cut how we want, when we want, and only if we want. But in today’s polarized political climate, do men have a responsibility to take a deeper look in the mirror?</h3>
<p>Our forefathers weren’t so flush with our luxury of choices. A few examples: Eighteenth century men didn’t dare grow beards (moustaches are another story); Joshua Evans, an American Quaker was avoided by friends and enemies alike because of his “alarmingly eccentric” beard. When bearded Joseph Palmer moved to Fitchburg, Massachusetts In 1830, women crossed streets to avoid him; his windows were repeatedly broken; children assaulted him with stones, and the church refused him communion. Four men threw him to the ground attempting to shave his face, and after fighting them off he was arrested and imprisoned for a year. In 1850, journalist John Waters wrote about the beard, “There exists no right whatsoever to exhibit to the community a disgusting object of this sort; upon every principle it ought to be abolished…” His Majesty the Emperor of all Russias issued a proclamation the same year citing “the detestable usage of beards,” and called for an end to this “indecent and subversive innovation.”</p>
<p>Fast-forward to 1966: A New Jersey school committee decreed that boys with ducktail or Beatle hairdos be barred from classes. A boy in Los Angeles was convicted for disturbing the peace for refusing to cut his hair. In 1970, a long-haired teen was admitted to hospital in serious condition after being scalped for being un-American. Beards, moustaches, and long hair were banned by law or regulation in Cuba, Argentina, Greece – and Disneyland. Billboards in the American countryside encouraged men to “Beautify America; Get a Haircut.”</p>
<p>So we did, and we still do – barber shops are booming. But one popular haircut is raising hackles and risking outrage. Imagine sitting in the chair debating the finer points of fade versus buzz, razor versus scissor, or pomade versus wax over a double-shot soy latte in an innocent moment of vanity. But what if your choice of “Short Back & Sides” that men have worn innocuously for decades invites suspicious glares when you step outside?</p>
<p>The Undercut, High Fade, Bald Fade, Hard Part, High & Tight – all are names for a cuts involving a marked contrast in length, usually buzzed close to the scalp on the sides and nape, and left longer on top (‘disconnected’ in technical terms). The cut originated in Victorian England, and was the norm for men in much of the 20th century for reasons of basic utility: Headwear. Soldiers were able to wear helmets more comfortably, and since few civilians went outside without a hat until the 1960s, short hair around the hatband was immune to creases and muss. Historically, the Undercut – like the basic bowl cut – has been associated with unskilled barbering; more elite haircutters were trained in subtler blending techniques. It was a staple for young working class men, and a trademark of street gangs, as long hair was a liability in a street fight: In Glasgow, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ned_(Scottish)">Neds</a> – precursors to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teddy_Boy">Teddy Boys</a> – wore undercuts, as did <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scuttlers">Scuttlers</a> of Manchester, and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peaky_Blinders">Peaky Blinders</a> of Birmingham (inspiration for the Netflix series widely credited with the cut’s resurgence, along with Michael Pitt’s character Darmody in HBO’s Boardwalk Empire). 1980s New Wavers and synthpop fans revived it; so did indie kids and skaters in the 2010s. More recent adopters include athlete David Beckham, rapper Macklemore, disc jockey Skrillex, and Arcade Fire singer Win Butler. You see it now on Wall Street, and it is more and more common on Main Street.</p>

<p style="text-align: center;"><sub>Top: The author's grandfather in WWI and father in WWII British forces; Cillian Murphy in Peaky Blinders; Bottom: Michael Pitt in Boardwalk Empire; David Beckham</sub></p>
<p>But, clean-cut guys motivated merely to recoup an old-school masculinity are having their style choice viewed with suspicion. The Undercut – referred to in ironic air-quotes (or sotto voce) as the ‘Hitler Youth’ for years – is now being referred to as the ‘Fashy Haircut’ (short not for fashion, but for Fascist) because of its association with WWII Germany, Wehrmacht soldiers, and Hitler’s own head.</p>
<p>White nationalists who are coming out of the woodwork – enabled, some say, by our new administration – such as Richard B. Spencer, 38-year-old coiner of the term ‘alt-right’, and head of the National Policy Institute and Radix Journal (organizations that promote white identity and the creation of an “ethno-state”) have been accused of appropriating the undercut and popular, hipster style in general. Spencer is conspicuous for his calls to bar interracial relationships, and taking “sadistic pleasure” in “getting under the skin” of protesters as he urges supporters to “Party like it’s 1933.” But he also wants to blend in and make extremism appear less extreme.</p>
<p><sub><br></sub></p>
<p><sub><br></sub></p>

<p>Does the power of this haircut lie in its adoption by people seeking to consolidate power? While we hear Spencer’s chants of “Hail Trump,” we also hear echoes of “Feel the Bern” by young, Sanders supporters, many fitting the hipster label. Women along the queer spectrum adopted the relative androgyny of the undercut, seen on iconic pop singer Miley Cyrus (left), and Australian actress and DJ Ruby Rose (right). One online commenter writes, “<em>It’s a fundamental staple in lesbian coif. We all know it and love it, not only for its edginess but for its ability to help us identify queer ladies out in the wild. One of my favourite jokes is: “What do you call a straight girl with an undercut?… A liar.</em>”<br></p>
<br>

<p>An <a href="http://www.refinery29.com/mens-hipster-undercut-haircut" target="_blank">article</a> posted by Connie Wang on Refinery29 reports straight, left-leaning women swiping left on the dating app Tinder when they see guys with Undercuts – one more mental filter against creeps and predators. “I never know now if it’s a white guy who’s trying a little too hard to be hip, or an actual neo-Nazi,” says one. On the other hand, commenters on alt-right websites think the uproar is hilarious and absurd: “You know what else Nazis wore? Pants.”</p>
<p>Are the oppressed adopting a symbol of oppressors? Or are oppressors appropriating a symbol of heritage? Is this a case of pointing trigger-happy fingers? Fake news? Liberal hypersensitivity? Do we need to change the cut or change the conversation? Or when all is said and done, is it just a haircut?</p>
<p>We invited Hairstory Hairdressers to weigh in.</p>
<p>Wes Sharpton says:</p>
<p><em>“As much as I love using aesthetics to announce oneself, if we lump people together when it comes to politics we’re missing the point. This issue is bubbling up because we need to have more conversations about individuality. I’m a white man with a shaved head who wears a stocking cap, and some people might assume I’m a Skinhead, but it’s a practical choice for me because I don’t have much hair. I’d hate to be seen as a symbol of anything, and starting with assumptions is where tension comes from. A style choice could be political, but a guy with an undercut may have bulky hair, or can’t afford a haircut so often, or their girl- or boyfriend might have enough skill with clippers to do it at home. Be curious. Have an individual conversation. If we did that more, we’d have more empathy.”</em></p>
<p>Tony Kelley agrees:</p>
<p><em>“Groups have always represented themselves by how they look, and it’s unfair to take this to such an extreme. If you have tattoos, are you part of a motorcycle gang? This seems like a cancer that grows on itself; lots of cultures have defining looks; it reminds me of the dreadlocks controversy with Guido Palau for Marc Jacobs. To get so sensitive about it misses the point; the issue is the mentality behind it. To assume that everyone with a high-and-tight haircut is a Nazi is small-minded. Calm the F down!”</em></p>
<p>From Jason Devastation:</p>
<p><em>“Any haircut has its roots in something utilitarian or fashionable; the bob was about liberation, but it was also about safety when women went to work in factories. I have been giving men that haircut for more years than I would like. There was a moment when it came back as new and cool, and the only thing I dislike at this point is that it’s not unique; it doesn’t tell a story anymore. There was a time when you saw tattoos, piercings, crazy colored hair and understood them to be a part of a subculture or a sign of belonging to a group. Now, everyone has tattoos. Everyone has piercings. I think the cut is too mainstream now to have meaning. I can remember when I worked at a barbershop on the Lower East Side and someone specifically asked me for a Hitler Youth haircut, and I said, “I understand the haircut you’re asking for, but we’re going to call it something else, okay?”</em></p>
<p></p>
<p><strong>References:</strong></p>
<p>By <a href="http://www.esquire.com/author/12141/scott-christian/">Scott Christian</a>,  November 30, 2016<br><a href="http://www.esquire.com/style/news/a51116/high-and-tight-fascism-neo-nazis-white-supremacists/">http://www.esquire.com/style/news/a51116/high-and-tight-fascism-neo-nazis-white-supremacists/</a></p>
<p>By <a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/people/monica-hesse/">Monica Hesse</a> and <a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/people/dan-zak/">Dan Zak</a>, November 30, 2016<br><a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/arts-and-entertainment/wp/2016/11/30/does-this-haircut-make-me-look-like-a-nazi/?utm_term=.fb6745838bb4">https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/arts-and-entertainment/wp/2016/11/30/does-this-haircut-make-me-look-like-a-nazi/?utm_term=.fb6745838bb4</a></p>
<p>By Connie Wang, February 3, 2017<br><a href="http://www.refinery29.com/mens-hipster-undercut-haircut">http://www.refinery29.com/mens-hipster-undercut-haircut</a></p>

The Hard Part: Fashion, Fascism, and Feminism

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<h3 style="text-align: center;">The history of what we call shampoo is a story that reaches back less than a century, but the origin of washing our hair is thousands of years old, or as long as we’ve had hair to wash.&nbsp;</h3><p style="text-align: center;">Until modern science put the process under a microscope, hair was maintained with various inventions using readily available ingredients, animal, vegetable, and mineral. Follow along with the evolution of shampoo.</p><p></p><h5>4000 B.C.</h5><p>Cosmetic routines emerge from bathhouses to hairstyling, reserved for the upper echelon of society.</p><h5>3000 B.C.</h5><p> The belief becomes widespread that grooming and adornments separated humans from all other animals. Babylonian courts contain multiple bathrooms complete with clean, running water; soap made from animal fats boiled with ashes is stored in clay jars.</p><h5>1500 B.C.</h5><p>Egyptian cosmeticians harvest plants, such as lotus flowers, for essential oils, and combine animal and vegetable oils with alkaline salts to form a soap-like material for treating skin and for washing.</p><h5>The Middle Ages</h5><p>In Europe, Purity of the soul is emphasized over the cleanliness of the outer. In Japan, daily bathing becomes a common custom. In Iceland, pools warmed with water from hot springs are popular gathering places on Saturday evenings.</p>

<h4>800 A.D.</h4>
<p> In Aleppo, Syria, soap is made by combining olive oil, sweet bay oil, water and lye, then heated, left to cool, cut, and left to age for seven months.</p><h4>1100 A.D.</h4>
<p> European Crusaders encounter caravans along the Silk Road filled with Aleppo soap, bring home large quantities, and start discovering ways to create it.</p><h4>1200 A.D.</h4>
<p> European soap making spreads with the arrival of Muslim soap makers in Spain and Italy. The Italian city of Castile becomes well-known among Spanish and European royal houses.</p><h4>1500 A.D.</h4>
<p>Castile soap travels all over Europe to England where it is imported in large quantities by sea. English hair stylists boil shaved soap in water and add herbs to give hair shine and fragrance. But besides irritating the eyes, most soaps are difficult to rinse, and leave a dulling film.</p><h4>1800 A.D.</h4>
<p>Early colonial traders in India discover hair and body <a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/stories/2019/02/19/hair-care-self-care/">massage</a>, called champo, and introduce “champing” to Europe – and the origin of the word “shampoo”</p>

<h4>1898</h4>
<p>Berlin chemist, Hans Schwarzkopf, opens a drugstore dedicated to perfume and focuses his efforts on <a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/">hair care products</a>, including a popular, water-soluble, <a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/catalogue/powder_20/">dry shampoo</a> that despite the convenience, still causes dulling, alkaline reactions.<br></p>

<h4>1900</h4>
<p><a href="https://www.hairstory.com/products/styling/hair-balm/">Conditioner</a>, which originated as “brilliantine,” is created by Frenchman Edouard Pinaud and introduced at the World Fair to soften moustaches and beards.</p>

<h4>1908</h4>
<p>The New York Times outlines “simple rules” on <a href="http://query.nytimes.com/mem/archive-free/pdf?res=9904E5DA143EE233A25753C1A9639C946997D6CF" target="_blank">How to Shampoo the Hair</a>. It claims that hair is best shampooed at night, following thorough combing and brushing, and singeing split ends. Castile soap is applied with a stiff brush and rinsed four times every month to six weeks.</p>

<h4>1914</h4>
<p>Kasey Hebert invents the first commercial shampoo. Ads for Canthrox Shampoo show young women at camp washing their hair in a lake; magazine ads by Rexall feature Harmony Hair Beautifier and Shampoo.</p><h4>1927</h4>
<p>Hans Schwarzkopf introduces one of the world’s premiere liquid shampoos and launches his international empire of hairdressing institutes.<br></p>

<h4>1930</h4>
<p>The first shampoo containing <a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/stories/2019/01/15/get-sulfates-out-your-life-and-your-hair/">synthetic surfactants</a> is introduced as Drene. Dr. John Breck introduces one of the first shampoos to America and develops one of the first pH-balanced shampoos.</p><h4>1946</h4>
<p>The first “built” <a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/stories/2019/01/15/get-sulfates-out-your-life-and-your-hair/">detergent</a> (containing a surfactant/builder combination) was introduced in the U.S. The surfactant is a detergent product’s basic cleaning ingredient, while the builder helps the surfactant to work more efficiently.</p><h4>1960s</h4>
<p>Chemists discover ways to suspend polymers in shampoo, to fill in the bumps and ruts where hair is damaged by <a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/stories/2018/12/03/what-is-sulfate-free-shampoo-myth-or-must/">detergent</a>.</p><h4>1970s</h4>
<p>Ads featuring hair icons Farrah Fawcett and Christie Brinkley assert that it is unhealthy not to shampoo <a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/stories/2019/01/22/how-often-should-we-wash-our-hair/">several times a week</a>.</p><h4>1980s</h4>
<p>Chemists discover ways to suspend silicones in shampoo, resulting in “2-in-1” formulations and a flurry of patents. When rinsed, they are “triggered” by water to bind to hair, which can be hit-or-miss; large amounts of silicone are added to ensure that enough is left behind.</p>

<p>Thus began our collective love affair with shampoo and the sensation of lather on our heads. As with many products marketed to both professionals and consumers, shampoo became increasingly specialized to address a number of desires and conditions – thin, thick, curly, dry, oily, blonde, colored, ethnic, young, old – and to sell as much of it as possible. And for every shampoo, there is a companion: Conditioner.</p>
<p>The quest for <a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/products/new-wash">a better shampoo</a> has been the Holy Grail of hairdressing, but as long as detergent in its many modern forms is an ingredient, and as long as our love of lather continues, shampoo manufacturers will be essentially spinning their wheels. You could probably see this coming from the first sentence in this article, but Hairstory has rewritten the shampoo saga.</p><h4>2015</h4>
<p>While we’ll always support the original spirit of the word and love a good scalp massage as anyone does, New Wash is the most significant evolution of <a href="https://uat.hairstory.com/products/new-wash/">hair cleansing</a> in ages – and may just be the final chapter in the shampoo story.<br></p>

The History of Shampoo

New Wash Deep

20oz

32oz

New Wash Original

New Wash Rich

<p><span>“New Wash on the go” (and through airport security): Our squeezable 3-ounce option is refillable and made from recyclable plastic to dispense your favorite New Wash from its pouch. Decorated with a motion motif, bottles arrive empty.</span></p>

<p><strong>Hair dreams do come true.</strong> Wake up to New Wash (Rich). Moisture and weight work with your texture instead of against it. Rich has a new look! Hello, 8-oz pouch. It’s resealable, it hangs, and it’s made of 63% less plastic than the bottle (no more carton)!</p>
<p></p>

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The History of Shampoo

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